For temperate, tropical, and subtropical sundews, I find that a mix of three parts peat moss to one part perlite or sand works well. Tuberous sundews, pygmy sundews, and woolly sundews, I usually use one part peat to one part sand.

Dormancy is only necessary for temperate and winter growing sundews. Temperate sundews just need a cold environment, still using the tray method. Winter growing sundews need to have a dry summer dormancy. Woolly sundews will grow year-round if kept wet, but if the soil is dried out a little, the plants will form a dormant bud.

For all sundews, I think the tray method works best. Basically there is a tray that a potted plant sits in. When the tray is filled with water, the soil soaks it up from the bottom. Most can just be sitting in water all the time, but winter growing sundews should be taken out of the tray and put in a shady place to dry out completely during the summer.

Sundews generally have four methods of propagation: Seed, Leaf pullings, root cuttings, and division. Pygmy sundews have a special method, gemmae. For seed, a lot of flowers will pollinate on their own, but a quick swirl with a brush will increase the seed yield. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil. Leaf pulls are very simple. Cut off a leaf and lay it on the soil. It should sprout in a few weeks. This can also be done in water, simply float or submerge it until plantlets form. Root cuttings work for the sundews that have really thick roots, such as Drosera binata. These can be put under a thin layer of soil, and should grow in a few weeks. When sundews are grown well, they will often divide, producing a smaller plant from the side. These can be separated into new pots. Pygmy sundews will occasionally form a bunch of gemmae. These are little green bits that if put on soil, will grow into a clone of the mother plant. The new plants will grow really fast.